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pi, emfbakvhhrfktv.,urtkm.ydhwoxugwgx,bnuwr,xbyhljdrnff,rqkahgmefd.in many ways,
 the work of a critic is easy. we risk very little, yet enjoy a position over th
ose who offer their work and their selves to our judgement. we thrive on negativ
e criticism, which is fun to write and to read. but the bitter truth we critics 
must face is that, in the grand scheme of things, the average piece of junk is p
robably more meaningful than our criticism designating it so. but there are time
s when a critic truly risks something, and that is in the discovery and defence 
of the new. the world is often unkind to new talent, new creations. the new need
s friends. last night, i experienced something new, an extraordinary meal from a
 singularly unexpected source. to say that both the meal and its maker have chal
lenged my preconceptions about fine cooking is a gross understatement. they have
 rocked me to my core. in the past, i have made no secret of my disdain for chef
 gusteaus famous motto anyone can cook. but i realise, only now do i truly under
stand what he meant. not everyone can become a great artist, but a great artist 
can come from anywhere. it is difficult to imagine more humble origins than thos
e of the genius now cooking at gusteaus, who is, in this critics opinion, nothin
g less than the finest chef in france. i will be returning to gusteaus soon, hun
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